Ikkat Is An Extraordinary Display Of Skills And Creativity Through Colours

double-ikkat-saree-loomIkkat is a dyeing technique involving the application of dye resistant bindings in a pre-determined pattern prior to the colouring of threads. The resulting creation would expectedly surface in a lyrical colour extravaganza of finesse and precision.    

Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique wherein bindings or substances resisting dye penetration are applied over the fibres in pre-determined patterns and then the threads are dyed. Alteration of bindings and using more than one colour for dyeing produces multi-coloured thread effect. Removal of the bindings and the subsequent weaving of the threads would form the desired pattern woven in the fabric. 

The determining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, on the threads prior to the weaving of the fabric.  More the precision in the application of the resist bindings, finer would be the pattern formed.

Tie and Dye is also a similar dyeing method but with a difference. Here the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings are then applied to the fabric before colouring.

Ikkat is classified into single-ikkat and double-ikat styles.

unmn12274Single Ikat fabric are created by interweaving tied and dyed warp with plain weft or resisted weft yarns is inserted in plain weft.

Double ikat involves the process of resisting on both warp and weft and then interlacing them to form intricate yet well composed patterns.

In warp ikat the dyeing of the threads would be of the warp (lengthwise lay of threads) across which the plain weft (feed of thread woven breadth wise across the warp) is led through.

In weft ikat it would be vice versa. In double ikat both the warp threads and the weft threads would be dyed separately and then woven together.

In warp ikat the patterns are evident on the warp lay even before the weft is introduced. Ikat created by dyeing the warp is simple as compared to the making of either weft ikat or double ikat.

First the yarn is tied in bundles. Yarn could be silk, cotton, jute or any other fibre chosen as base material. The resist bindings in the form of wax or any other dye resistant material, is then applied over the yarn. The dye is applied carefully and systematically and according to the desired shade.

unm124251The procedure of application of resist bindings afresh for different colours is repeated till the dyeing process of all colours used is complete. 

Washed and dried in shade, the coloured threads are laid out on the loom and the weft on small spindles is used to interweave across the warp threads to create the fabric. Important is the pattern that has to surface accurately on the warp for which the alignment of the warp threads is a pre-requisite. If the alignment is precise, the resulting motif comes out as a fine print rather than as a weave. 

Here the skill of the weaver comes into play. The warp threads are manually raised selectively to allow the weft thread to pass through and how keenly this follows the intended design determines the fineness of the resulting pattern on the fabric.  

Patterns can be formed vertically, horizontally or diagonally.

Weft ikat is preferred when it is the overall look that is important and not the precision of the patterns. Double ikkat is even rarer and an example is the Patola saree of Gujarat. Lesser accurate or poor imitation double ikkat versions are available in the market. sambalpuri_saree

The artistic excellence of ikat prints can be gauged from its traditional motifs of flowers, dancing girl, creepers, leafs, parrot, animals, birds, mythological characters and geometrical patterns. Most of the ikkat printed sarees have repeated geometrical patterns of diamonds (rattan chowk), circles, squares, lines etc. 

Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh and the Rajkot Patola weave of Gujarat are famous for their individual brand of ikkat sarees. Ikkat prints are trending and high fashion on a variety of fabrics like pure cotton, pure silk, georgette, crepe and supernet, to mention some.

South Indian handloom cotton sarees of ikkat prints having zari border with an elegant pallu are classic. They are apt for daily casual, office and outings.  

unm13161The Designer Rajkot Patola Pure Silk Ikkat printed sari having embroidered border and pallu embellished with crystals and beads is an exquisite creation. These are preferred wear for weddings, as bridal attire, for festivals and grand social occasions.

The Georgette half and half pattern saree with ikat prints is a stylish affair that would go well with parties and informal functions.

Unnati Silks has trendy designs, attractive patterns, in vivid colours and pleasing combinations in its large collection of ikkat Sarees. Unnati is a one stop single store for over 300 varieties of traditional sarees and salwar kameez.Dispatch is within 24 hours of order. Free delivery & COD is provided for retail.Worldwide express shipping caters to almost all countries across the world.  

 

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